A Bit About Ropes

Having a productive blogging day today it seems. Some of you millions of followers may be looking at getting a new rope / first rope, and you might be a little confused by all the options. So here's a little opinion on ropes and what to look at.

"Should I drop the big bucks on a sweet dry-treated rope?" 

ah the grand myth of the dry-treatment!

the big question is this: will you be ice-climbing with this rope?
or similarly: is the area where you climb known for it's insane wetness?

if you are not going to be climbing on a wet rope on a regular basis, you do not need the try treatment and are just spending unnecessary money.

focus on the dynamic and static elongation, and the impact force (this will give you an idea of the durability but also the comfort of the rope for climbing - stretchier tends to be more comfortable but a little less durable, high impact forces = harsh on the body/gear)

"OK but what about the fall rating for the rope?"

UIAA falls are generally a useless measurement so pay no heed. You will never take repeated falls over factor 1 in such quick succession as to test this capability of your rope.

"What about diameter?"

Unless you are leading backcountry 5.12, don't look at anything thinner than a 9.8. if you're only gym/sport climbing, go for a 10.1 - you'll get way more life out of your rope. Thinner ropes are always less durable, and do you REALLY need those weight savings if you're only lugging the thing a couple hundred metres from the parking lot?

"So how do I distinguish between all the offerings?"

go to a store and feel the ropes - is there a significant disconnect between the core and the sheath? i.e. can you compress the rope in a big way and really easily feel the core? if you can, that rope will generally be more likely to get core slippage later in life.

in north america, this is what i generally find:

- New England Ropes/Maxim: low core slippage, higher impact force, good durability. advantage: very inexpensive for a good rope.

- Beal: too spongy feeling for me, lots of space between core and sheath (except in the new glued unicore ropes). I have heard, though, lots of good things about Beal - especially for ice climbing.

- Edelrid: great bang-for-your-buck, very stretchy, durability so-so. good hand but not as smooth as others when belaying.

- Mammut: pricey but amazing, great balance of stretch and durability, hard to find a not-dry rope though.

- Sterling: amazing ropes, durability is great, great balance between stretch and durability. something for everyone.

- Petzl: they seem to have solved their durability problems, a little softer in the hand, quite stretchy, overall pretty good value.

My recommendation is Sterling....but I am probably biased.

Your new climbing helmet

Even if you aren't in the market for a new climbing helmet, in the interest of noggin joy I urge you to go buy the Edelrid Shield II. This helmet is, above and beyond, the most comfortable thing I have ever put on my head. More comfortable than your favourite snap-back, more comfortable than grandma's knitted touque...(okay maybe that's pushing it a little)

Photo: edelrid.de

I have a BD half-dome and a Petzl Elios, and I've tried the Petzl Meteor III, Grivel Salamander, and the new BD Vector. I also own a nice expensive bicycle helmet (Selev Matrix) that is beyond comfy in its own rights. But hot damn, the Shield II just hugs so good.

So if you're just getting into outdoor climbing, or you need to replace your old, tired helmet, you must get a Shield II. There's really no other option - it's just that good. The suspension system hugs perfectly around your head and is snug enough to stay on without the straps done up, but will never cause you aches and pains.

Seriously don't take my word for it - go try one on in your local MEC. It'll cost you $81.36 CAD after taxes. For our friends in the USA, I do believe your only option to get the best fitting helmet on the market would be an adventure up into the Great White North - so come say hi!

Shoe demons...solved?!

I think I've finally found a good fix for out-of-control climbing shoe stank...and I shall be sharing it with you this evening!

The main difference I found with this fix is that it didn't just surface-treat the offending nasties, it got down and dirty with them, cage-match style. It resulted in the shoes being odour-free and taking a while to re-ordourise - not as long as a new pair of shoes, but much longer than any of the other treatments that I've tried.

Exciting stuff, stay tuned!

Review: The North Face Storm Peak II Boot

So I managed to snag these at Adventure Guide's winter sale for a crazy deal. I've been in the market for a solid pair of winter boots for a while now. I'm coming from years of wearing leather hikers in the winter and having uncomfortable feet...so, really, anything would be better!

OK So these boots are essentially a 3-layer laminate: a softshell outer bonded to a waterproof breathable membrane bonded to 200 delicious grams of Primaloft insulation with a microfleece lining. This makes them super weatherproof and pretty darn warm. They're also mad stylish.

Likes: Metatarsal support - the insole has an awesome little bump that you don't notice when the shoe is on but it adds some very nice support to your midfoot, seriously good stuff. Waterproofing - yay! Lightweight - the boots are definitely feathers compared to many other winter boots...that speaks to their purpose though.

These are obviously active boots. The insulation is not enough to keep your feet warm while just standing around, and the sole gets cold very easily. The lug pattern on the sole is good but definitely seem to be made more for running on groomed trails than bushwhacking on uneven terrain. One of the nice features is that the boot has a heel welt, which means it's compatible with the more secure versions of aluminum hiking crampons, a definite bonus.

All in all they would make great winter running boots or snowshoe-running boots, but if you're not going to be constantly moving, consider something with more insulation, definitely a more insulated/shielded footbed, and a sturdier lug pattern on the sole.

The North Face Storm Peak II, I give you 8 locking 'biners out of 10.

Fierce Boot Lust: KEEN Summit County

Review: MEC Compulsion Jacket

At first I felt a little weary about reviewing MEC products on here, just because they're only available from MEC, so the review may bias you towards the store. After some thought, though, I figured I could deliver a solid unbiased review of an MEC product as I would any other.

So begins the first of many MEC product reviews! To kick things off I'll be reviewing the first jacket that kicked off my gear obsession this year: the MEC Compulsion Softshell.

Material: It's made of Polartec Power Shield, a phenomenal softshell material also used by companies such as Arc'Teryx, Marmot, and Millet. The Compulsion has a low-loft grid-fleece backing so it's geared much more towards spring and fall when the weather is mild and wind is becoming an issue.

Fit: I'm essentially the standard Medium, and in the Compulsion I'm no different. 5'9, 168lbs, the jacket fits great. If anything I'd suggest a more form-fitting mid-section, but as it stands there is nice room for layering. I've got pretty broad shoulders and they fit well into the jacket.

Likes: Power Shield. Super wind resistant, nice and comfy, stretchy and easy to move in. MEC made a nice and simple layout with a full-zip, two hand pockets and elastic cuffs. The paneling in the jacket is good and facilitates movement well

Dislikes: The water repellancy left something to be desired. First time I wore it, I had it out in a light drizzle, no pack on, just walking the dog. The arms were OK but the shoulders had begun to wet through on the face after 10 minutes. I didn't get wet and the jacket dried wonderfully fast but I would like to see better off-the-shelf DWR (I also have a MEC Pedigree that is Power Shield and has exceptional water repellancy - review coming soon...). Otherwise, I'd ask for an arm pocket (you never know how handy they are until you have them!), either on the bicep or near the wrist.

All in all, The MEC Compulsion Softshell is a solid jacket at a good price point that slots in well for cooler weather (think early spring/fall days and late summer nights) and would be a great piece in anyone's layering arsenal.

MEC Compulsion Softshell, I give you 7.5 locking 'biners out of 10.

Current Lust: Mammut Broad Peak jacket. lightweight low-volume down sweater, perfect for winter layering.

Review: Arc'teryx Miura 50 Backpack

So I've had the Miura all summer, and I've taken it bouldering, car-camping, hiking, and even used it simply to transport my clothes when visiting my parents.

The bag is marketed as a climbing pack for transporting all your gear to the crag. There are gear loops inside for clipping all manner of business to, and the bottom is shaped to perfectly fit the Arc'teryx rope bag, the Pali. It fits my own, much less cool rope bag too, if i take more care in packing. The main selling feature of the bag is the fact that - by way of two full-length zippers - the front flips open completely to reveal the contents.

OK. The roll-top closure on the bag is different and takes a little getting used to. Once I had it, though, it was great and allowed for a super-fast pack/unpack. The flip-down front was an amazing feature that made organising a breeze because I could access everything I put into the bag at once, no digging required. I absolutely love this feature and would definitely like to see it on other bags. That being said, this bag is more for folders, not so much stuffers. Even with the side zippers done up, the stiff edges of the roll-top make stuffing a little hard.

The nature of the roll-top also means that if you ride a bike with this bag, unless it is a relaxed cruiser bike, the top of the bag will press into your head. If you wear a helmet, definitely don't wear this bag because it'll just be too hard and annoying to properly see the road.

The zippers and not at all waterproof, and although the face fabric is a little water repellant, the bag is definitely not made for rain. The bottom of the main compartment is coated on the inside (probably with polyurethane) for durability and waterproofing...the catch is that if water gets IN, it just pools on the bottom.

The Miura has the outstanding quality of construction you would expect with an Arc'teryx product and excellent attention to detail. The pack is comfortable to wear and an easy-carry for hiking with. I would say that day trips and weekends should be a breeze, and you would love the flip-open feature for these shorter trips. For longer excursions though, or heavier loads, a dedicated trekking/backpacking pack would definitely serve you better.

All-in-all, the Miura is a wicked cragging bag and the 30L version would make a seriously pimp (though pricey) day-to-day bag for doing anything. The flip-down front is a delicious feature that you will definitely come to love. The cons I listed above are mainly due to me using it for things it wasn't really designed for, though the water resistance is something I would still gripe about.

Arc'teryx Miura 50, I give you 8 locking 'biners out of 10.