Friday, August 31, 2012

Your new climbing helmet

Even if you aren't in the market for a new climbing helmet, in the interest of noggin joy I urge you to go buy the Edelrid Shield II. This helmet is, above and beyond, the most comfortable thing I have ever put on my head. More comfortable than your favourite snap-back, more comfortable than grandma's knitted touque...(okay maybe that's pushing it a little)



Photo: edelrid.de

I have a BD half-dome and a Petzl Elios, and I've tried the Petzl Meteor III, Grivel Salamander, and the new BD Vector. I also own a nice expensive bicycle helmet (Selev Matrix) that is beyond comfy in its own rights. But hot damn, the Shield II just hugs so good.

So if you're just getting into outdoor climbing, or you need to replace your old, tired helmet, you must get a Shield II. There's really no other option - it's just that good. The suspension system hugs perfectly around your head and is snug enough to stay on without the straps done up, but will never cause you aches and pains.

Seriously don't take my word for it - go try one on in your local MEC. It'll cost you $81.36 CAD after taxes. For our friends in the USA, I do believe your only option to get the best fitting helmet on the market would be an adventure up into the Great White North - so come say hi!

Friday, July 13, 2012

Industry rumblings, what can we look forward to? Part 1

For many of us, summer is a great time of year to get outside and actually DO those things we love so much. For the Outdoor Industry and those of us obsessed with the outdoor industry, though...it's just another season at the office!

OutDoor Friedrichshafen 2012 just wrapped up, and as usual some very cool stuff came from some of the big players.

Arc'teryx
North America's favorite luxury brand has updated their pack line with notable changes coming to the Altra series and Miura series.

Interestingly it appears as thought the new Miura series will no longer have a roll-top closure, with what seems to be a full wrap-around zipper instead. Time will tell how much this affects the durability of the pack.  Thankfully though the full-opening nature of the pack should be maintained.

Black Diamond Equipment
Last year we saw the Magnetron technology (coming to retail in September) make waves in the locking carabiner market. This year we see BD producing a direct competitor to the Metolius Master Cam and the new Fixe Aliens - the X4.

These small, super-flexible cams share design cues from both predecessors but with a key difference - they are double-axle designs (according to BD, with something BD calls "stacked-axle technology") as opposed to single-axle. The X4s occupy the same sizes currently filled by the C3. It will be interesting to see how these stack up against the current offerings, especially given the claim that double-axle designs are inferior due to their tendency to walk in placements.

Cascade Designs
Not too much new and exciting from Cascade Designs to be honest - an updated gravity filter from Platypus is one thing we can expect. The primary summer rumblings seem to be in the form of a new range of sleeping bags from Thermarest. Low-fill bottoms and straps to connect them securely to sleeping pads seem to be the primary selling points.

Sub-900g for a -7 mummy bag is a pretty good weight for sure - and for those alpinists looking for every gram of weight savings, there will be a hoodless shorter-cut bag that has been designed around pairing with a down jacket. Very cool to see these kind of generally underground/custom designs making more headway in the mainstream market.

Gregory Packs
I am a huge Gregory fan - I own the Palisade 80 for my expedition pack and it is a fantastic design - so I was admittedly a little worried when the company was grabbed by Black Diamond a couple years ago.  Thankfully though the union has not resulted in a dilution of design for Gregory and they continue to release fantastic designs.

One of the designs I am excited to take a closer look at when it is released is the Contour series with their brand new packing system which Gregory has called "TrailSmart". Promising here is the idea that they have separated the pack into three separate packing zones - trail gear is separate from camp gear and gear that might be needed on a regular basis is on-hand and easy to access. Sounds interesting for sure and I'm excited to check it out in-person.

Mammut Sports Group
Mammut is easily one of my favourite gear companies - their designs are slick and great looking, and they're always doing something a little different. This year is no different, with Mammut introducing new Active Shell jackets and updating their softshell repertoire as well. Although we don't get their sleeping bags in N.A., I had the opportunity to take a look at them in Europe and they're great designs - a pedigree that no doubt will continue with a brand new high-alpine -30 down bag, the AltitudeEXP 5-season.

What I found most intriguing, though, is the RescYou. Designed for use when crevasse falls are a significant danger, the device can be used for both self-rescue and rescuing a partner. Essentially it is two ascenders connected by a 6-fold pulley system. It's pretty hard to see how it works without trying it, but it looks like the lower ascender (rope clamp) is connected to the belay loop, and then the climber pulls themselves up the rope through the pulleys (significantly reducing the difficulty of ascention, although moving a shorter distance with every pull). Similar operation of the device would facilitate rescuing a partner.

It would be interesting to see the weight of this device compared to other rescue setups because it looks like a great idea.

Schoeller Textil
Though not gear companies themselves, textile manufacturers like schoeller have a profound impact on the industry through their technologies. At OutDoor 2012, schoeller has seemed to put more focus in their softshell technologies - unfortunately the fabrics are not scheduled for release until 2014!

"corkshell"
Schoeller is using the inspiration from natural cork to apparently deliver thin, flexible softshells with significantly greater insulating properties than current offerings - this tech will supplement their existing WB-400 softshell series. Very interesting I'm excited to see what comes of this.

"ceraspace"
I can only assume that this is based around ceramic particles. It's a 3D coating that is slated to not only vastly improve abrasion resistance, but maintains flexibility of the softshell and looks damn slick as well. That's pretty neat.

Hopefully more neat things to come this summer! OR Summer Market in Utah is coming up in August - very exciting!

Sunday, June 17, 2012

Shoe demons...solved?!

I think I've finally found a good fix for out-of-control climbing shoe stank...and I shall be sharing it with you this evening!

The main difference I found with this fix is that it didn't just surface-treat the offending nasties, it got down and dirty with them, cage-match style. It resulted in the shoes being odour-free and taking a while to re-ordourise - not as long as a new pair of shoes, but much longer than any of the other treatments that I've tried.

Exciting stuff, stay tuned!


Sunday, January 22, 2012

2012 Gear Stoke!

So I've been trolling the internet trade show infos...and I'd like to share a few tidbits I've come across!

In no particular order...

MSR is updating the crampon on their Lightning Ascent snowshoes, the "Torsion2" crampon points are now detached and can flex independently...supposedly offering better traction and stability on uneven ground.
[1]



My favourite tent company, NEMO Equipment, is introducing a really awesome pressurized camp shower this year called the "Helio". It's like your standard camping shower but with pressure so you don't need a place to hang it for it to work! And as seems to be par-for-the-course from NEMO, it's well-made and just  bloody awesome.
[2]


Outdoor Research has a pretty interesting new jacket called the "Lodestar" coming out, playing with their so-far successful hybid styling (I use their Alibi jacket for ice climbing, a hybrid of 2 softshell weights and a hardshell...and it rocks) and using a crazy looking quilted high-loft Polartec Power Shield  for insulation combined with Power Shield Pro for weatherproofing. Excited to check this one out!
[3]


As you may expect from the dead bird, some gorgeous works of art are coming to us in 2012. The Quintic (28 and 38) are a pair of new ski touring packs. from Arc'teryx:
"Specifically designed for skiing and snowboarding, the Quintic Pack has a suspension system that controls aggressive side-to-side motion and separate narrow compartments to keep gear sorted, easy to access and well-balanced during travel. The external strap configuration fits A-frame, diagonal carry of skis or split; horizontal and vertical carry for a snowboard. In the spirit of alpine needs for efficient ascents and secure downhill action, the true benefit of this design is load stability and access."
[4]
They've also changed the Alpha SV - a burlier but quieter and lighter face fabric (jacket loses 50g) and interestingly will be smaller around the chest, reportedly for "efficient arm motion".
[5]


Deuter is giving us a new alpine/ice pack called the "Guide Light" which looks to be loaded with great features - pretty stoked to see some nice product from Deuter. It'll also be available in a women-specific version which is a great idea.
[6]



Despite getting back into the Gore family, Patagonia is still pumping out new h2No designs and they'll be introducing a new 3-layer ("Exosphere") and a new 2.5-layer ("Trophosphere") in 2012. They also have an interesting new softshell addition to their Guide series called the Mixed Guide (below) - hardshell shoulders/upper chest and softshell everywhere else. Interesting!
[7]
They're also changing their Capilene 4 baselayer lineup to utilise a better breathing/more compressible Polartec Power Dry High Efficiency fabric (it's grid-fleece-esque and appears to be already available in the MEC T2 series of long underwear) AND great news, they *finally* are giving men a Cap 4 hoodie too!
[7]



That's all for now...2012 is shaping up to be a pretty sweet year in gear!






Images:
[1] to [3]: www.snewnet.com
[4] to [7]: ISPO Munich, www.ispo.com




Thursday, December 8, 2011

My Early Season trip checklist

SO! This weekend is something I am incredibly excited for. I'm heading down to the Adirondacks High Peaks with Evan, Lara, and Steph hoping to jump on some delicious early season ice climbing. Our destination is the North Face of Pitchoff Mountain (check the video at the bottom), the locale that we figure has the best chance of having climbable ice.

The weather has been a serious pain...first setting up great early season conditions, getting our hopes up...and then threatening to squash them in a fury of mild temperatures and not-frozen cloud tears. But, we're taking the chance and heading down! Hooray for adventures!

Last year in ONTARIO we were able to climb by this date (Dec. 7th)...unfortunately I think southern Ontario will have to wait at least a week...So for Evan's birthday, this is our trip.

Given that we have the possibility of encountering wet, thin ice...some gear changes had to be made. Also a big change from previous trips, we'll be staying in a hostel this time...so no need to find a campsite!

I figured I'd toss a packing list up here for the heck of it, give y'all an idea of what I'd bring on this kind of trip. Anything in the list below that has a link will take you to info about the product. I'm not intending to advertise, but figured maybe someone out there is interested in knowing more about what I'm using.

Trip Length: 3 days
Camping: no


GEAR


Ice Axes (Black Diamond Fusion)
Crampons (Black Diamond Cyborg)
Harness (Black Diamond Xenos)
Helmet (Black Diamond Half Dome)
Ice Screws (Black Diamond Turbo Express)
Nuts (full set + nut tool)
Small Hexes
Tri-cams (0.5-2)
Pitons
Slings (dyneema - 60cm, 120cm)
Quickdraws (wiregate, dyneema dogbone)
Locking carabiners
Loose carabiners (at least 2 for every sling)
Cordalette (6mm ~10m)
V-thread tool (homemade)
2x 8.5mm Half-Ropes
Reverso3
Figure 8
Tibloc
Stove (Primus EtaPower MF)
Poles (Black Diamond Contour Elliptic)
Pack (Arc'teryx Cierzo 25)



CLOTHING


Outerwear
Softshell Jacket (OR Alibi Jacket)
Hardshell Jacket (Berghaus Temperence II Jacket)
Insulated Jacket (Westcomb Himalaya Hoody)
Softshell Pant (OR Alibi Pant)
Hardshell Pant (Cloudveil Koven Pant)
Boots (Mammut Mamook Thermo)
Thin hat for under helmet (Helly Hansen HH Dry)
Buff (HH Warm Buff)
Thick hat (Mammut Placid beanie)

Gloves
OR Stormtracker gloves (primary climbing gloves)
MEC Windbreak gloves (backup climbing gloves)
BD Punisher gloves (very cold or wet weather climbing gloves / belay gloves)
BD Mercury Mitt (Hand toasters)

Under-the-Outerwear
2x lightweight long underwear
2x short-sleeved base (this and this)
2x long-sleeved base (1 merino 1/4-zip, 1 lightweight synthetic crew)
2x insulating top (MEC Amenity and T3 Stretch hoodie)
4x boxer briefs
6x socks (including these which i am very excited about - primaloft yarn!)


And that's it! Some stuff I have left out (e.g. binoculars, sleeping bags) because someone else is bringing them or they aren't entirely necessary...but there you go, that's the plan!

You can definitely expect a trip report when we return!

the North Face of Pitchoff Mountain:


Thursday, November 3, 2011

I feel it in my fingers, I feel it in my toes...

This sunday is the government-mandated remorseless killing of a wonderful hour that heralded sun and extended activity time for the last few months...but hey it's not all bad, right?

One man's daylight savings time is another man's ice-climb makings time. As October leaves us, dazed, wondering what happened last night and where our pants have gone, November rolls on in...that jacket you've been donning to walk the dog in the evening suddenly is not quite enough...the tips of your fingers are strangely less effective during your early-morning text messaging blitz while standing at the bus stop...

There is already snow in the Adirondacks, and the Presidential Range in New Hampshire has climbable ice! Oh deliver unto me an unending stoke!

I think this weekend I'm going to trundle down into the basement and brush the dust off my crampons and get down to the lovely business of making them ready for ice season. Axes too...some careful filing and they'll be ready for the big leagues! Last year, we were climbing in Ontario in the first week of December, I'd love to do better this year!

So, I've started my ice dance...who's with me?

First day out last year...December 9th I think...

keep it cold!



Thursday, March 3, 2011

Trip Report: Last day out of the season!?



Every day we go out becomes the "last day" out...because the current temperature fluctuations are making our noblest of endeavours a risky business...
So! although sunday's excursion with Ryan was our last day out, Tuesday's excursion with Evan was also our last day out. Who knows, maybe next week we'll have another last day out.

We decided to take advantage of some outstanding bluebird weather to zip into Elora and check the conditions at Irvine Creek, a great little haunt right in the town (Irvine empties into the Grand).

We parked on the side of the road, walked over to the gorge edge, hopped a barrier and rappelled in. Probably the most relaxed approach possible, dandy! All things considered (recent near-double-digit weather with rain) the ice was in great condition, in some cases noticeably fat and growing.
Once in the gorge, it's possible to walk along the edge of the river to the bases of a few WI4's. In this area, climbing is speediest if you are comfortable leading WI4 ice up to 40ft...if you had to build TR stations at each climb, it'd be a bit of a headache. Luckily the ice was in fat conditions and provided plentiful fun.

We started the day on a nice fat section with great ice and a sketchy topout. My lead, Evan redpoint.
Next we turned to the left and jumped on this cool vertical curtain that spills over an overhanging tree. short distances of vertical between excellent rests, but the thin nature and verticality make it more of a head game. The ice was bomber though so made for a great time! My lead, Evan redpoint.
More leading followed, up some stepped WI3+ with some serious excavation required to find screws. Me: "hey man, this is right up your alley!" Evan: "eh?" Me: "it's like a bloody archaeological dig up here finding screw placements!" (Evan has a master's in classics). Good times! My lead, Evan redpoint. You can sort-of see the line following the right edge of this compiled picture:
Some pretty creative climbing was required here to navigate the mushrooms and poor surface ice. 'twas great!

Did some more exploring, the fantastic pillar down the river was still standing...hopefully it'll hang out for a little while so we can get out on it! Conditions are quickly deteriorating though so we'll have to see.

Re-learned an important lesson about standing in the line of fire, though...
no worries, i'm fine...and it'll leave a great scar!

Keep it cold!